Technique replaces foie gras in the city's most luxe burgers
Burgers from Mission Bowling Club (left) and RN74 (right)
If the Naughts were all about topping burgers with luxurious extras like foie gras or pork belly, this decade’s burger masters are working with beef and beef alone.
Umami Burger slow-cooks its flavor-enhanced patty in a steam oven. LarkCreekSteak lards the grind with trimmings from premium steaks. Fifth Floor custom-blends several different cuts to achieve maximum flavor.
But two new burgers beat them at their game:
At Mission Bowling Club, chef Anthony Myint laboriously “granulates” brisket, hangar steak and chuck, ensuring the muscle fibers in the burger ($15) remain aligned. The patty’s tenderness isn’t all you notice; the tallow the meat is seared in contributes beefiness on the sub-bass level.
For the lunch-only burger ($16), RN74’s cooks blend four different cuts--Wagyu brisket, hanger steak, short rib and chuck--then cook the meat in a blazing-hot iron skillet to give the patty a mahogany crust. They add garlic and herbs to the pan as it cooks, giving the burger’s considerable juices a more savory cast. A little caramelized-onion-and-duck-fat jam on top doesn’t hurt, either.
Mission Bowling Club, 3176 17th St. (at S. Van Ness Ave.), 415-863-2695 or missionbowlingclub.com; RN74, 301 Mission St. (at Beale St.), 415-543-7474 or rn74.com
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