Out with the Nouveau

Discover Beaujolais's serious side

New York wine shops are still awash with leftover Beaujolais Nouveau, the light, fruity wines released en masse in November and meant to be drunk before the New Year. Sadly, these simple (and heavily publicized) wines steal the spotlight from the region's true gems, the best of which can rival good Burgundy—at a fraction of the price. So make this your 2009 wine resolution: Go beyond the Nouveau.

Made from the Gamay grape, Beaujolais has loads of berry fruit and a snappy acidity that pairs well with a range of foods, especially anything fatty (from sausage to lo mein). And thanks to its mellow tannins, Beaujolais works nicely where most reds do not: with spicier dishes and seafood.

Now that Nouveau is a distant memory, try some more serious Beaujolais. Here are our favorites, and where to find them:

2007 Chateau de Pizay Beaujolais ($12) Light-bodied with fresh grape and berry notes, this easy-drinking Beaujolais has more heft than Nouveau and is terrific with charcuterie (septemberwines.com).

2007 Domaine des Grand Fers Fleurie ($17) The most prestigious Beaujolais come from a series of towns known as crus. Fleurie, one of the top crus, is known for wines with floral aromatics and darker fruit flavors. This rich Fleurie is no exception (astorwines.com).

2007 Domaine Georges Trichard Chenas ($19) From Chenas, another great cru, this sustainably made wine has a spicy nose and soft, plush fruit flavors (moorebros.com).

2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais-Villages ($21) Marcel Lapierre, one of the region's most renowned producers, had a hand in making this vibrant, minerally and all-around exceptional wine (uvawines.com).

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