There's been plenty of focus lately on the rock-star status of young butchers, but not nearly enough on the proteins they prepare.

But the just-opened Chelsea Market shop from "meat curator" Jake Dickson will change this, with NYC's most intimate meat counter to date: a large, glass-enclosed cutting room where you can watch the guts and glory of whole-beast butchering.

Dickson's goal: to provide a "candy shop for carnivores" full of handpicked proteins that arrive fresh from local farms. In addition to standard butcher-case cuts, his offerings will include specialty poultry (guinea hen, partridge and goose) and the more underrated parts of lamb, pork and beef.

The multipurpose space also houses a classroom and lunch counter, where chef Gabe Ross (an alum of Savoy and Gramercy Tavern) creates a rotating menu of hearty sandwiches made with pulled pork, lamb shanks and braised beef. And the giant in-house smoker will allow him to make custom bacon, ham and sausages.

If you want to get even closer to your protein, butchering classes will be offered in the see-through cutting room, where all can watch your handiwork (or lack thereof).

Dickson's Farmstand Meats, Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave. (between 15th and 16th sts.); dicksonsfarmstand.com