Gin-trified

The city is in the midst of a full-blown gin revival, with the juniper-scented spirit turning up at our favorite establishments in a vast range of new (and newly resurrected) styles. Genever? Old Tom? Sloe gin? We can't keep track of them all, so we asked the folks at Madam Geneva, the gin-driven cocktail den "hidden" behind the new NoHo restaurant Double Crown, to create a gin flight to educate us.

Beginning tonight, you can sample any three gins from Madam Geneva's extensive list (30 strong and growing) for $18. But the best way to introduce yourself to the breadth of new (and old) gin styles, says bar manager Brian McGrory, is to ask for this trio:

Hayman's Old Tom Gin Popular in 19th-century England, it's slightly sweeter and much smoother than the London dry style, which has become the industry standard.

Anchor Genevieve Genever Though it's distilled in California, this gin recreates the Dutch-born Geneva style (modern gin's precursor), which offers a creamy mouthfeel and malty, almost whiskeylike flavors.

DH Krahn Gin A fine example of the so-called New World style, this crispy, citrusy gin is incredibly smooth and a good introduction for vodka lovers.

Madam Geneva, 4 Bleecker St. (at the Bowery); 212-254-0350 or madamgeneva-nyc.com