Tick Tock 

A sugared itinerary for Dominique Ansel Bakery 

| New York City   Cooking | Tressa Eaton

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The Paris-New York

Hell hath no fury like a customer denied a kouign amann.

Barely two weeks old, Soho's Dominique Ansel Bakery strives to bake its pastries as fast as it is selling out of them. Ansel himself (a Daniel- and Fauchon-trained pastry chef) has already bumped his wake-up time to 2 a.m. in the hopes that his caramelized croissant-like cakes with seams of butter in every flake will still be available come noon each day.

So because timing is everything, use our eating itinerary for the deservedly popular bakery. This is food worth planning for:

8 a.m. DKA's, Dominique's Kouign Amanns ($5.25), are emerging from the oven in a heated flush. Try the Perfect Little Egg Sandwich ($5)--an egg pillow topped with Gruyère and tucked into a circular brioche slider--with a cup of La Colombe coffee ($2).

11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Now is the time to stock up on sweet treats. The circular choux pastry Paris-New York ($5.50) is like a Paris-Brest gone rogue with peanut-butter-cup flavors, while each tarte Tatin is made with an entire Gala apple ($5)

Noon to 4 p.m. Chunky salmon salad ($11.50) suspended in a mustard mayonnaise and a slim mortadella panini with stretchy mozzarella ($11) beckon. Be prepared to wait while the sandwiches are assembled to order. Since you're being leisurely, sit in the glass-enclosed greenhouse in the back.

3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Tiny madeleines (served Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only) are prepared to order ($4.25 for 10 pieces and $7.50 for 20 pieces). Try them with the ingenious chocolate-foam-topped hot cocoa ($4). Each sip yields a stratified layer of icy, then warm, then hot chocolate.

7 p.m. (Tuesday to Saturday) and 6 p.m. (Sunday) Bakery closes. Try again tomorrow.

Dominique Ansel Bakery, 189 Spring St. (between Sullivan and Thompson sts.); 212-219-2773 or dominiqueansel.com

See a Video of the Making of Kouign Amann
Explore a Slide Show of Dominique Ansel's Pastries
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Dominique Ansel Bakery 189 Spring St. New York NY 10012 212-219-2773
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