Neighborhood Watch: Greenpoint
A cheat sheet to eating in Brooklyn's hideaway
Calyer, Karczma and Troost represent Greenpoint's multifaceted personality
There's no need to stay within the buzzy confines of Williamsburg when only a few blocks away, Greenpoint is home to quiet streets and a bustling food scene. Here are three destinations.
Newfangled: This restaurant is now closed. While the decor of Calyer, a new Spanish-inspired restaurant, sits within the "Brooklyn rustic" bell curve, chef Gabe Moya's menu dazzles with refined technique in dishes such as the shaved veal tongue. In the dish, paper-thin strips are arranged around pockets of crema fresca, tomatillo salsa and pickled mustard seeds.
Old-Fashioned: Though it is only a few years old, Karczma is a touchstone for Greenpoint's Polish history. Those seeking authenticity might scoff at the ersatz Polish decorating, but the food will silence any naysayers. Start with the peasant lard ($3.50), which is flecked with chunks of bacon, a happy foil to slices of white rye. Follow up with a pork-based hunter's stew ($7), an ideal dish for staving off a chill.
Anytime: By day, the new Troost serves as makeshift office to the laptop-lugging set, offering La Colombe coffee and pastries from nearby Bakeri. At 7 p.m., the place becomes a no Wi-Fi zone as coffee makes way for a wine and beer list (with selections from natural wine kings such as Christian Binner) and pastries step aside for sandwiches and cheese plates. On warmer days, a manicured garden provides the best seats.
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