Beer gardens are (deservedly) all the rage at the moment.

But we need the occasional reprieve, a watering hole that's a bit more civilized. Enter Silver Lining.

This new subterranean Tribeca bar has precisely what we seek: drinks prepared with care, room to get comfortable and sophisticated surroundings.

The cocktails ($14 and up) take cues from Sasha Petraske, Joseph Schwartz and Vito Dieterle's successes at Little Branch.

The menu lays down some friendly back-to-cocktail-school knowledge. Under "Lime Drinks" learn that white rum plus sugar equals daiquiri. But add cognac and it's a brandy shake or swap gin and you get a gimlet. Sections labeled "Lemon Drinks" and "Ginger Beer" prove equally enlightening.

A Silver Rye Fizz is accompanied by a cold metal straw, fat cubes of ice and a linen cocktail napkin. Reminiscent of an egg cream, the whiskey-based concoction is the perfect way to say goodbye to summer.

To match these libations, Silver Lining's bar food rises to the occasion: Try a thick slick of a plucky olive oil- and anchovy-rich bagna cauda, which is accompanied by a cornucopia of vegetables ($14).

A jazz quintet plays from 9 p.m. to midnight on weekdays and from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. on weekends. At other times, jazz is softly piped in--leaving plenty of decibel space for conversation.

Three cheers for decorum.

Silver Lining, 75 Murray St. (between West Broadway and Greenwich St.); 212-513-1234 or silverliningbar.com