At The Waverly Inn, the starry guests in the clubby dining rooms command most of the attention, but it's time to turn the spotlight on the restaurant's newest chef, Eric Korsh.

After eating such dishes as his steamed local black sea bass ($36) with leeks, new potatoes and American caviar and his signature rabbit pappardelle ($32), we were reminded again how talented Korsh is. We were dedicated fans of Eloise, the short-lived West Coast restaurant he and his wife, Ginevra Iverson, ran in Sonoma County a few years ago. Now, Korsh has returned to New York, and his food is as focused and delicious as ever.

Consider his green-chickpea risotto. Korsh harnesses the fresh essence of this adolescent version of the pantry staple in a breathtakingly simple risotto ($19). For intense effect, he folds both whole peas and pureed peas into the dish. To finish, he adds Parmigiano-Reggiano and, this being the casually luxe Waverly Inn, a wallop of black-truffle butter.

Securing a reservation at The Waverly Inn can be trying, so we snagged the recipe for Korsh's risotto (click here for the recipe). It is currently high season for green chickpeas. Buy them from Nevia No at her Bodhi Tree Farm farmers' market stand or at Dean & DeLuca.

The Waverly Inn, 16 Bank St. (at Waverly Pl.), 917-828-1154