Sixpoint makes beers that we consider local treasures: The brewery's Sweet Action, Brownstone and Otis Stout are all dependable favorites.

But starting this month, chief brewer Shane Welch is creating a line of beers that's neither dependable nor expected; Sixpoint's Mad Scientist Series is made up of extremely limited, highly innovative beers with a new offering hitting bars every two months.

The maiden offering, available through the end of January, is the Mad Scientist Series #1 Spelt Wine. Brewed with spelt malt (a medieval grain that's a distant cousin to wheat) and fermented with abbey yeast, this hazy orange beer has a dry, tart and spicy character that evokes a fine wine.

In February, look for the release of a collaboration with Stumptown Coffee in the form of a bock-style beer. With a little tinkering, a fermenter has been turned into a giant French press that infuses the brew with fresh coffee.

Other ideas range from the exciting (teaming up with Red Jacket Orchards) to the bizarre (a beer fermented with indigenous bacteria from Brooklyn's harbor), but all of them promise to be one-of-a-kind.

To that end, the series will be distributed only in draft form--an intentional ploy to make sure you enjoy the beer in a social environment and contribute to the dialogue about what you're drinking. And if the Spelt Wine is any indication, you'll have plenty to talk about for the months to come.

Find Mad Scientist Series #1 Spelt Wine at Amsterdam Ale House, Bar Great Harry, Hop Devil Grill and Mission Dolores