Chickpea Chic

The backroads of East Williamsburg aren't exactly a culinary wonderland, which is why Yummus Hummus is such a pleasant surprise: Nestled between warehouses, this tiny new restaurant is doing big things with the little chickpea.

True to its cheeky name, Yummus Hummus is turning out some of the city's creamiest hummus, and topping it with everything from a gooey-sweet bulb of roasted garlic ($7.50) to a slow-burning yogurt-jalapeño-harissa sauce ($7.50). But even unadorned, this hummus can hold its own.

The secret? Owners James Leritz and Sean Biloski keep the spread supersmooth by soaking dry chickpeas overnight, then removing the bean's skins before grinding them. After blending the chickpeas with tahini, lemon juice and olive oil, the hummus achieves an unexpectedly airy texture.

Each variety is served with a dense, wheaty homemade pita, and are best enjoyed immediately in the woodsy, homespun space, which Biloski and Leritz--who owns the Kiln Design Studio nearby--built themselves from salvaged materials.

In addition to four hummus plates, there's a rotating cast of falafel sandwiches, salads and pastries (don't leave without trying the banana-Nutella croissant).

Talk about a diamond in the rough.

Yummus Hummus, 55 Waterbury St. (at Scholes St.), Brooklyn; 347-984-6202 or yummushummusbar.com