Fighting Irish

One night a year, we crave corned beef and shepherd's pie. Unfortunately, it's the same night our chances of enjoying a quiet Irish supper are nil. This year, we're thanking our lucky shamrocks for Wilfie & Nell, a new West Village bar that serves some of the city's best Irish food--and serves it long after the rest of the leprechauns have gone home to sleep one off.

But don't be mistaken: Wilfie & Nell is a busy, bustling bar, with no discernable seating policy. Landing a table is a free-for-all, though you can eat at the bar and just about anywhere else you can balance a plate. But if you stop by at the beginning or end of the night (food is served from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m.), your chances of snagging a seat increase dramatically.

Created by Momofuku and Rusty Knot alum Joaquin Baca, the menu is classic pub fare at fine-dining caliber. Start with the Scotch egg ($4), a hard-boiled egg encased in sausage and deep-fried, or a bowl of bacony split-pea soup ($6). The grilled-cheese sandwiches ($7) are the best Irish toasties we've enjoyed this side of Dublin, but the corned beef and Gruyère sandwich ($9) is what we'll be having before giving our Irish goodbye.

Wilfie & Nell, 228 W. Fourth St. (at W. 10th St.); 212-242-2990 or wilfieandnell.com