Dining

All Buttered Up

French Louie's superb smoked sardines
French Louie Boerum Hill New York Sardines
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At French Louie, the new Atlantic Avenue restaurant from the team behind Buttermilk Channel, Ryan Angulo makes a lot of nice things. Maybe the nicest is this beautiful dish of smoked sardines ($9) under a great big slab of butter. Sounds simple, but it's one of the most delicious things we've had this year. Here's how it works:

① The massive butter brick. Shot through with a dark, salty confetti of algae. Yes, algae. Presented, of course, at precisely the right temperature so that it holds its shape but is soft enough to spread.

② The fish is filleted, brined and smoked in-house for just a few minutes, so it still tastes like what it is: a super fresh sardine from Rhode Island.

Bien Cuit's wonderfully crusty, ever-so-slightly sweet rye ficelle.

French Louie 320 Atlantic Ave. Brooklyn NY 11201 718-935-1200
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