All Buttered Up

French Louie's superb smoked sardines
French Louie Boerum Hill New York Sardines

At French Louie, the new Atlantic Avenue restaurant from the team behind Buttermilk Channel, Ryan Angulo makes a lot of nice things. Maybe the nicest is this beautiful dish of smoked sardines ($9) under a great big slab of butter. Sounds simple, but it's one of the most delicious things we've had this year. Here's how it works:

① The massive butter brick. Shot through with a dark, salty confetti of algae. Yes, algae. Presented, of course, at precisely the right temperature so that it holds its shape but is soft enough to spread.

② The fish is filleted, brined and smoked in-house for just a few minutes, so it still tastes like what it is: a super fresh sardine from Rhode Island.

Bien Cuit's wonderfully crusty, ever-so-slightly sweet rye ficelle.

French Louie 320 Atlantic Ave. Brooklyn NY 11201 718-935-1200

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