Meat cooked right and a mess of crisp fries: When it's good is there anything better? A proper steak frites is a true treat. As with any round-up of iconic dishes there will be rules and disagreements between honorable carnivores. This is bistro fare, not a dish served at steakhouses. If you have to order your fries from a supplemental potato menu, it's not a steak frites. This is our list of the best in the city.

Le Philosophe
Grilled Flat Iron, frites, sauce choron, sauce bordelaise ($27)
The Frenchy real-deal: The boldly beefy and tender flat iron is fanned out over an earthy, jus-like bordelaise. The side of brown-butter choron sauce is just right for dipping super-crisp fries.

Prime Meats
Steak Frites ($30)
A bavette grows in Brooklyn. The sliced Wagyu cut from Frankies is flavorful enough without the béarnaise. Great fries. Solid deal. 

The Odeon
All Natural NY Strip Steak Frites ($35)
The trusted, timeless, up-late-downtown-what's-for-dinner, can't-miss bistro classic. Add a hunk of Roquefort ($2) because why not? The meat comes from Creekstone Farms but are you really paying attention? Have another martini.

Montmartre
Steak Frites (Shoulder: $30, NY Strip: $40)
Tied up, cooked sous-vide, then seared to order, ensuring even doneness every time. It's a bit of a cheat, but the meat's tasty enough that we're not complaining. 

French Louie
28 Day Dry-Aged Steak ($36)
Aged ribeye + fries with anchovy butter + old-school steak sauce = this newcomer from the Buttermilk Channel guys is a worthy addition to the steak frites scene.

The final steak frites score | Bar Boulud (top) | Le Philosophe (bottom)

Lafayette
Dry-Aged Strip Steak Frites, béarnaise butter ($35)
Grilled strip with crisp, thin-cut bistro fries in an enlightened bistro setting: There's very little to argue with here.

Bar Boulud
Steak Frites ($40)
Daniel does steak. And like pretty much everything Daniel does, it's damned good. Big cup of near-perfect fries, excellent char--it ain't cheap, but if you're at Bar Boulud, neither are you.

Minetta Tavern
Tavern Steak with pommes frites ($28)
With good char, a nice pat of herb butter and classic McNally style crack-fries, this is one of the most New York rooms in town.

Raoul's
Creekstone Farms Steak au Poivre ($39)
Don't get hung up on the pepper-sauce thing; this is steak frites done right. The substantial filet is cooked the way you want it done, and the kitchen gets bonus points for frites fried in duck fat.

Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecôte
Trimmed Entrecôte steak "Porte Maillot" with its famous sauce ($29)
With only one main on the menu (literally), this Parisian chain better know what it's doing--and they do. Servers keep your rosy sliced steak warm over little burners and return with the happy question: Do you want more perfect frites? Of course you do. Believe le hype.