Get Yourself to Greenpoint
Neighborhood gems like Luksus, Glasserie and River Styx make the trip worth it
It used to be hard to sell Greenpoint as a destination. There's the G train (enough said), as well as the neighborhood's split personality: either residential or an industrial ghost town depending on the block.
But within months, the area has become a concentration of food and culinary talent that is only growing. Rounding out the spots below are the ultra-chef endeavors by Paul Liebrandt and Luksus, the tasting menu experience in the back of Tørst. Time to make the trek, we say.
Glasserie: "I wanted to open something off the beaten path," owner Sara Conklin told us. She succeeded: Greenpoint's main drag dead ends into this former glass factory--any further and you'd be in Queens. But the secluded space is the perfect setting for the sunny, Middle Eastern-leaning food prepared by chef Sara Kramer (formerly of Reynard's and Blue Hill).
Achilles Heel: The latest notch in the belt of Marlow & Sons empire builder Andrew Tarlow gracefully bridges the afternoon with the evening. Stop in early for an espresso and the platonic ideal of a simple tomato sandwich, or later for a drink.
The Bounty: Sustainable seafood is the conceit of this new spot, and dishes like the linguine with clams cement its success. If the bowl were a ship, it would sink under the abundance of pristine, butter-soaked littlenecks. Back on land, chef Eric Mann (formerly of Prune) makes a burger that warrants its own Facebook page. It's that good.
River Styx: Right at the mouth of Transmitter Park, River Styx's menu is documentation of a chef having fun. Nachos, a constant, hold court with wood-fire roasted clams (served with garlic knots and a bowl of salsa verde), and a smoky, blistered half-chicken draped in an acidic, tomato-based sauce (think barbecue meets Frank's Red Hot).