Neapolitan from the tinkling truck is so a thing of the past.

Chefs from coast to coast are currently filling ice cream sandwiches with the unlikeliest--and most deeply savory--flavors.

Good Humor truck, time to up your game.

Qui: Mexico meets the Philippines in chef Paul Qui's waffle sandwich at his new Austin restaurant. In between the flaky crisps, a lick of goat's-milk cajeta tops an inspired take on the beloved Filipino flavor cheddar ice cream, which Qui makes with clothbound cheddar from Cabot Creamery in Vermont.

Pearl & Ash: At this new Manhattan restaurant, Fernet-Branca is swirled into cooled crème anglaise, then spackled over thin dark chocolate cookies. Another ice cream sandwich is imminent: It's based on The Last Word cocktail.

Americano: The aroma of candy cap mushrooms reminds San Francisco chef Kory Stewart of maple syrup. So he steeps the tiny dried 'shrooms in a simple ice cream base, then bookends the ice cream with butterscotch pecan cookies.

OddFellowsThis Brooklyn newcomer already churns flavors like miso-butterscotch with cherry. Its owner, Sam Mason, is currently experimenting with a toasted sourdough ice cream he plans to spread on house-made cookies.