TASTING TABLE NYC
Enjoy this story from our archive, originally sent to TT members on 9/29/2008.
$5 and Under: Back Forty
Pork jowls are a cheeky, irresistible cheap eat
Think of Back Forty—the year-old Avenue B spot from restaurateur Peter Hoffman—as the casual kid sister to Savoy, his locavore-friendly SoHo institution. Back Forty embodies the same sensibility, but it's a little more fun and a lot cheaper, especially when you compose a meal from its rotating menu of seasonal snacks and sides. Our favorite: the $4 fried pork jowls with jalapeño jam.
After curing the fatty cheeks in salt and sugar, chef Shanna Pacifico braises them in stout, cuts them into bite-size chunks, coats them in bread crumbs and deep-fries them. Their succulent fattiness finds a perfect foil in the spicy spicy-sweet tang of house-made jalapeño jam.
Eat them on the massive back patio, washed down with a craft beer, alongside a few of Back Forty's seasonal small plates—heirloom tomato and pancetta BLTs, say, or chile-spiked parsnips—which are the real deal steal here. And don't worry, says Pacifico: Those jowls will be on the menu all year.
Back Forty, 190 Avenue B; 212-388-1990 or backfortynyc.com
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