Kneads Met

Though the LES has no dearth of baked goods, the options have been primarily the carbs of the Old World: matzo, knishes and bialys.

But with the opening of wholesale bakery Pain d'Avignon's first retail shop, in the Essex Street Market, locals gained a source for a wider range of breads.

The small stall is already brimming with more than 50 types of naturally fermented loaves lining the shelves. Pain d'Avignon's offerings range from a critically acclaimed baguette to the best brioche we've ever tasted. And fresh replenishments from the company's Queens headquarters come in thrice daily, ensuring that you'll never come across a stale crumb.

But it's not just variety that has us excited: The bakery has a reputation for excellence and fills the breadbaskets of some of New York's most esteemed restaurants, including Corton and Eleven Madison Park.

That the bakery starts with pristine ingredients--unbleached, unbromated flour, sea salt and filtered water--doesn't hurt, but co-founder Uliks Fehmiu insists that the most precious component is time: Each loaf of his bread typically takes 24 to 36 hours to make.

This translates into loaves with unparalleled character: A pane Francese boasts a perfectly pliant center, while a crackly ciabatta with a chewy crumb is the ideal foundation for a sandwich.

It's a good thing, then, that sandwiches (along with espresso and pastries) will soon make their debut.

Pain D'Avignon, Essex Street Market, 120 Essex St. (at Delancey St.); 212-673-4950 or paindavignon-nyc.com