Sambal is the throbbing heart of the Balinese food at the new (and currently BYOB) Selamat Pagi.
Hundreds of varieties of these chile-jammed sauces are used across Indonesia, and now a hauntingly delicious handful are being served at the new Greenpoint restaurant.
In 2011, the team behind Van Leeuwen Ice Cream, Ben Van Leeuwen, his wife Laura O'Neill and his brother Peter Van Leeuwen, threw a staff party and served the food of the wee island of Bali. By feast's end, the idea for Selamat Pagi had germinated.
To experience your very own island fling, follow this spiky road map:
Sambal mateh and sambal tomat: These two sambals join forces in the deviled eggs ($3.50). The first sambal, a raw combination also used in the deliciously hodgepodge shredded Bali fish salad ($8.50), melds shallots, lemongrass, chiles, coconut oil, lime juice and shrimp paste; it's used to enrich house-made mayonnaise. The second sambal, a rich tomato, macadamia nut and palm sugar sauce, is served alongside for raking atop the eggs.
Coconut sambal: Every chicken dinner wishes it could be as flavorful as the pan-fried biodynamic heritage bird ($16) served with jasmine rice, spicy fried-shallot-topped greens and this coconut sauce, set off with zesty makrut (Kaffir) lime leaves.
Selamat Pagi, 152 Driggs Ave. (between Russell & Humboldt sts.); 718-701-1630 or selamatpagibrooklyn.com