Restaurant in the Rye
In praise of smørrebrød
Tribeca's brand-new Aamanns-Copenhagen does something all too rare: It serves cold, light food that is both winter-ready and strikingly craveable.
Danes, knowing much about whipping winds, harsh cold and short winter days, have mastered the art of food that is both healthful and comforting.
At the center of that style of cooking: smørrebrød.
Using a Danish rye bread (available by the loaf for $12) as dense as the flavor is round and dark, chef Adam Aamann tops each open-faced sandwich with a selection of seasonally leaning toppings. Recent favorites include avocado, pickled green tomato and daikon ($7); organic egg with shrimp, potato-dill mayo and potato crisps ($9); and warm fried herring lounging over pumpkin purée ($21).
When paired with Denmark's St. Clemens Blue ($14), a quick double-sided fry in butter heightens the bread’s tang.
The food is cheery enough, but even the menu, chef, art, tableware, glassware and design--all imported from Copenhagen--radiates light and cold-weather ease.
We know where we’re going for our vitamin D doses this winter.
Aamanns-Copenhagen, 13 Laight St. (between Varick St. and St. John’s Ln.); 212-925-1313 or aamanns-copenhagen.com