Our brunch trips to Belcourt used to correspond directly to the intensity of our hangovers—in other words, when we couldn't endure the inevitable line at Prune.

But lately the year-old East Village restaurant has become our dependable first pick for lazy weekend meals, thanks to its reservation policy, sunlit space and an affection for local and house-made ingredients.

It's no surprise to find Prune (and Uuvo) alum Matt Hamilton in the kitchen, and the word "house"—as in house-made—all over his menu. Hamilton's from-scratch capacity is evident in dishes like croque-madame ($11) made with house-cured lamb ham and topped with bubbling Gruyère and fried eggs. House-made ricotta shows up with fresh-baked buttermilk biscuits ($7) and on top of decadent vanilla-bourbon French toast ($10). Hamilton's personal favorite is the spicy salt-cod hash ($11), served with poached eggs and—you guessed it—house-made harissa.

A word to the wise: It's impossible for food this good and prices this low to go unnoticed. Lines will follow, so get there soon.

Belcourt, 84 E. Fourth St. (at Second Ave.); 212-979-2034 or belcourtnyc.com