Long before Williamsburg was a hotbed of steampunk artisans and meat maestros, it had culinary street cred in the form of Georgiana DePalma Tedone.

Her small storefront, Tedone Latticini, houses a modest, well-manicured selection of Italian goods, but the real draw is the fresh mozzarella this ivory-haired nonagenarian has been making by hand every morning for more than 75 years.

And though anyone can now make his or her own at home, Tedone crafts her mozzarella using the same technique she learned at her parents' dairy counter--the proof of these years of experience lies in the unmatched flavor of her cheese.

And we're not alone in thinking so: The perfectly salted, creamy balls ($6) sell out so quickly, they're usually gone by lunchtime.

Get there early and incorporate the mozzarella into a delicious sandwich with Prosciutto di Parma and sweet roasted peppers, or pair the cheese with the special house-made roast beef (available only early Saturday mornings), nestled between pockets of crunchy Italian bread.

Tedone Latticini, 597 Metropolitan Ave. (between Leonard and Lorimer sts.), Brooklyn; 718-387-5830.