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Enjoy this story from our archive, originally sent to TT members on .

Whoa, Nelle

La Pigeonelle makes beer that even a winemaker could love

It's true that beer and wine have been trying to patch up their relationship as of late, as evidenced by category-bending beverages that provide something for everyone.

The latest diplomatic move is La Loirette ($9 for 750 ml) from Brasserie de la Pigeonelle, a small-batch beer company from France, which is now available in the States for the first time.

Though it often keeps company with wine, make no mistake: La Loirette is purely beer. Eccentric brewer brothers Stéphane and Ludovic Hardouin began their careers as distributors before going DIY. Years later, after moving to France’s Loire Valley and finding noteworthy ingredients, the pair created La Loirette. The Belgian-style farmhouse ale, above all its many admirable qualities, refreshes.

Its delicate aroma and subtle yeasty flavor might disappoint those who like to punch their palates with hops. But we loved its finesse, its coquettish brightness, its power to revitalize when cracked open before 5 p.m.

Like the natural wines with which it often holds court, La Loirette is made using natural practices and organic ingredients.

And like the best things in life, you’ll have to wait for it. The beer, courtesy of wine distributor Selection Massale, won’t ship until the fall. But it can be ordered now--and should be.

To order La Loirette, contact Selection Massale at list@selectionmassale.com.

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