Horseradish has our love--but in small doses.

The gnarly root is famously known for its biting, sinus-clearing properties. Added by the conservative teaspoonful, it can make or break a Bloody Mary.

But thanks to Carolyn Sherman, teaspoons have been swapped for larger measurements. Her new line, ISH (six jars for $74), gives horseradish a starring and versatile role by relaxing the flavor extremes with clever add-ins such as beets and citrus.

We spiked our deviled-egg filling with the beet iteration for a reversed and, we would argue, improved beet-pickled egg. The citrus ISH gets its sweet-tart tang from lemons and oranges. Mixed with fresh herbs and bread crumbs, it added a potent accent when spread over whole grilled fish.

By summer, Sherman’s line will have expanded to include garlic and ginger flavors.

Consider our horseradish-fond hearts expanded too.

To order ISH, e-mail info@premiumish.com