TASTING TABLE NATIONAL
Enjoy this story from our archive, originally sent to TT members on 2/13/2012.
Rye Not
Rye flour invades the bakery
We've heard the tired refrain "white or wheat?" too many times to count.
But having sampled a new batch of superior rye-flour baked goods, we think we've found a counter offer.
Northern Rye in Brooklyn remakes Scandinavian standards such as thin-crusted, rice-filled karelian pies. Although the pies are signature, we couldn't stop snacking on their barely sweet, nutty rye shortbread ($5 for a box of seven; click here to buy). Rye flour gives the confection an unusual bite and complexity.
The cookies at Black and Blanco further cemented our new alternative. When Steve Blanco was searching for a way to make a healthier version of his mother's Moroccan ghoriba cookies, he swapped New York rye flour and coconut oil for wheat flour and butter to create his own twist on the sable-like cookie. Of the three flavors ($6 a box; click here to buy), the marzipan is our top contender; it's just slightly sweet and has an intense almond flavor.
When a chocolate craving strikes, we eschew candy bars for a slice of chocolate rye bark from Anna's Daughters' Rye Bread ($6 for a small bag, $14 for a large; click here to buy). A coating of bittersweet chocolate perfectly tempers the slight tang of thinly sliced toasted rye bread, making it an incomparable afternoon snack.
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