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Tasting Table NATIONAL

Enjoy this story from our archive, originally sent to TT members on .

New Leaf

Vegetables get their day in the sun

Photo: Evan Sung

Until recently, the idea of vegetarian food was an all-or-nothing affair.

But lately, the line between those who eat meat and those who don't has gotten blurred: Concepts such as flexitarianism and Meatless Monday are gaining serious traction.

And they owe their popularity in large part to the most outspoken meat lovers around: chefs.

Mario Batali gave the movement legs last year when he started offering meatless specials at his restaurants on Mondays. Chef John Fraser of New York City's Dovetail followed suit with a week-starting all-vegetable menu.

But now meatless has gone beyond the first day of the traditional workweek: In Philadelphia, Meritage Restaurant prepares an elegant Tuesday-night vegan prix fixe. In Healdsburg, California, at Cyrus restaurant, multicourse paeans to the garden share equal billing with traditional meat-and-fish-filled tasting menus on a nightly basis.

In Las Vegas, Wynn Resorts recently added vegan options at all the restaurants in its two casinos--even its steakhouse, SW, where grilled royal trumpet mushrooms now have a place on the menu.

Driving the trend forward again, Batali's new Italian Food emporium, Eataly (pictured), has a dedicated vegetarian restaurant, Le Verdure, that lets diners veg out any time. Chef Fraser, too, is rumored to be opening an all-vegetarian outpost in the near future.

Pork belly, watch your back.

The Menu at Le Verdure
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Le Verdure 200 Fifth Ave. New York NY 10010 646-398-5100 Dovetail 103 W. 77th St. New York NY 10024 212-362-3800 Meritage 500 South 20th St. Philadelphia PA 19146 215-985-1922 Cyrus 29 North St. Healdsburg CA 95448 707-433-3311 SW Steakhouse 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South Las Vegas NV 89109 702-248-3463
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