Traveling Table: Maui

Blissful eating by the beach

It's not just the gorgeous beaches that make Maui the subject of envy: Easy access to pristine seafood and tropical fruit is enough to make any continent-based chef jealous. Here's our guide to the island's dining destinations:

Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice In just a year and a half, this Lahaina stand (with a new location near the airport) has garnered cred for packing the best iteration of the state's signature dish, shave ice. The secret: quality, additive-free syrups made from local ingredients like guava, lilikoi and coconut. Ululani's, 819 Front St., Lahaina; 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului; 360-606-2745 or ululanisshaveice.com

Hali'imaile General Store Chef-owner Bev Gannon is sometimes referred to as Hawaii's Alice Waters, and with good reason. Her acclaimed restaurant--set beside pineapple and sugarcane fields--sources ingredients from just a few feet away. Try pizza topped with shredded crab ($9), salmon baked with a fiery aioli ($30), and caramelized pineapple upside-down cake ($9). 900 Haliimaile Rd., Makawao; 808-572-2666 or bevgannonrestaurants.com/haliimaile

Mala Wailea This new oceanfront spot goes to even greater lengths to create clean, local flavors. Balinese spices enliven a brown-rice stir-fry with line-caught island fish ($34), while the mashed molokai ($9)--the local purple potatoes--are creamy enough to forego butter. Fudgy bread pudding ($14) made with local coffee and Hawaiian sweet bread is Hawaiian beauty in a bite. 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 808-875-9394 or malawailea.com

Stay: Survey the North Shore's famed Kaanapali Beach from a room at new resort Honua Kai, while snacking on local produce and cheeses from the hotel's store, ‘Aina, which employs a 100-mile market concept. 130 Kai Malina Parkway, Kaanapali; 888-718-5789 or honuakaimaui.com

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