The perfect scramble is a thing of beauty. Soft and hot, golden-hued, composed of extraordinarily creamy curds so rich and well-seasoned they verge on cheesy.
But of course, there's no need for cheese--not when you've got the pure, intense flavors of eggs and butter. The technique isn't complicated. But to master it, you must be willing to give these eggs your undivided attention, doting on them for about fifteen minutes as you move them over the heat with butter and salt, watching for that crucial moment when they transform from custard into gorgeous, tiny curds. If you're not familiar with a perfect scramble, worlds away from dry diner-style scrambles, your life is about to change. Ready? Grab a spatula and get to work.
1. The heatproof rubber spatula is your best friend. Use it to keep the sides of the pan impeccably clean and to keep the eggs at the bottom of the pan moving constantly, which is essential for an evenly cooked scramble.
2. A great scramble requires butter with flavor. We love unsalted Kerrygold and Plugrás.
3. You're going to be beating the hell out of these eggs, so saucepan choice matters. Avoid a wide sauté pan: The eggs will be spread too thinly and cook too quickly. A narrower pan with tall sides will allow you to thrash the eggs without splashing and gives the mixture more depth, so it cooks slowly.
4. Underseasoned eggs are a tragedy. Use kosher salt to season, then sprinkle some delicately crunchy fleur de sel or sea salt, such as Maldon, to finish.
5. Use fresh eggs and take them out of the fridge about 15 minutes before you start.
6. Fines herbes, the classic herb mix of parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil, won't overpower a simple plate of eggs. Use young, tender leaves, chopped finely so they don't bring too much texture, either.
Yield: 2 servings
6 large eggs
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
Fines herbes (parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil), finely chopped
HOW WE SCRAMBLE