Cured meats with passports
Traditionally, the French and the Italians have fought over dominion of the charcuterie plate.
But as more American chefs get into the habit of curing, smoking and stuffing their own meats, the flavor profiles are skewing globally. Specifically, they’re being flavored with ingredients from the Asian pantry.
At Jamie Bissonnette’s Coppa in Boston, the pork pâté seems traditionally prepared at first glance, but a taste reveals the unmistakable flavor of red curry.
In Houston, Revival Market's chef Ryan Pera tips his hat to the city’s large Vietnamese population with his pho headcheese. The terrine is flavored with lemongrass, garlic, ginger and fish sauce.
And in Chicago, brunch favorite Longman & Eagle has launched a meat-centric pop-up called the Saturday Sausage Shop. Recent menu items include a pho sausage: a veal link flavored with reduced pho stock, served on a roll slathered in fish-sauce mayonnaise and topped with rice noodle salad, basil, cilantro and a wedge of lime.
We’ll be on the lookout for miso-cured prosciutto and dashi-spiked rillettes, surely coming soon.