Petal to the Metal
Everything's coming up roses
We’re fatigued with salted caramel and tired of chocolate bars containing chiles and bacon.
Rather than loud desserts that make a statement, spring calls for subtler sweets. Case in point: rose, the rediscovered muse of sugar makers across the country.
This delicate ingredient requires a nuanced hand, since its floral notes can be easily dominated by flavors like chocolate, citrus and sugar; when overused, it can turn a dish into a overly perfumy bar of soap. But when achieved in balance, the results are unbeatable.
At Jack’s Wife Freda in New York City, rosewater is added to waffle batter for an enhanced breakfast pastry. The waffle is served with strawberries, tart yogurt and honey syrup.
In Philadelphia, The Franklin Fountain rounds out its menu of old-timey shakes, sundaes and sodas with the Egyptienne Egg Shake, featuring orange juice, rose water, a whole raw egg and a candied date.
And at Belinda Leong’s long-awaited San Francisco pastry shop, B. Patisserie, the grande macaron--in which almond macarons sandwich raspberries and a rose crème mousseline--has already become a signature.