Made in China

A new book tackles the dishes you've always loved
Every Grain of Rice by Fuchsia Dunlop

When we think about China, we're reminded of the adage about how to eat an elephant (one bite at a time). So we're indebted to Fuchsia Dunlop, who has helped us slice the country's immense food culture into digestible pieces.

Her 2009 memoir, Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper, made us long for a plane ticket and a backpack. With her latest cookbook, Every Grain of Rice ($25), she's penetrated the thick veneer of inaccessibility surrounding cooking Chinese food at home.

Don't have a wok? Don't fret. The recipes are delightfully straightforward and approachable; with the exception of a few basic pantry items, you most likely already have what you need.

But the flavor in dishes like Emergency Late-Night Noodles made with packaged flat Chinese noodles, or Red-Braised Pork, a ubiquitous takeout staple that has been transformed with fresh ingredients, smacks of hours spent in the kitchen.

 Another plus: The book is overwhelmingly vegetarian-friendly, so it's the perfect tome for healthful weekday eating.


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