We’ve always thought that the best adjective to describe salt is the most obvious: salty.

But according to Brian Hepp, of Hepp’s Salt Co. in Los Angeles, some salts ($11 to $23) are actually sweet, fruity, spicy or crazy hot.

Building on the cooking wisdom that adding salt can elevate other flavors in a dish, Hepp starts with the best quality salt from around the globe and uses it as a vehicle for flavors like vanilla bean, lime, smoked alderwood and rosemary.

His infused salts perform double-duty in the kitchen, imparting both flavor and seasoning. Vanilla salt sprinkled on ice cream brings out the aromatic floral notes in the custard, while black and white truffle salt on eggs is a juxtaposition of the bold and the delicate.

Chefs and bartenders have quickly taken to Hepp’s upgraded grains: At the Library Bar in Los Angeles, a cocktail of blackberry, cilantro and mezcal is given a potent dose of salt that’s been mixed with ghost pepper powder.

Pass the salt, we say.