Reunited With Lambrusco
The real thing is at Macchialina
Lambrusco has reemerged, ready to cast aside its image as sappy wine-cooler fodder.
Before opening, chef Michael Pirolo traveled to Italy, where he had lived for years, with his general manager and partner (in business and life), Jen Chaefsky. Sipping a frizzante Lambrusco by the Mediterranean, Pirolo and Chaefsky imagined the wine would translate well to Miami's steamy summer nights. Oh, how they were right.
Start a meal at Macchialina with a restorative Più Fresco ($11), an Italian sangria of sorts made with Lambrusco, honey and strawberries. Whet your appetite with speck ($7) from the charcuterie menu.
Then try the Più Fresco's base, Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Emilia-Romagna Lambrusco di Sorbara ($11 per glass; $42 for 750 ml), unadulterated. Enjoy the crisp, rose-colored wine with briny olives fried with sage and garlic slivers ($5).