Lambrusco has reemerged, ready to cast aside its image as sappy wine-cooler fodder.

The sparkling Italian wine is featured on the menu at the new Macchialina, the latest from the people behind the Pubbelly restaurants.

Before opening, chef Michael Pirolo traveled to Italy, where he had lived for years, with his general manager and partner (in business and life), Jen Chaefsky. Sipping a frizzante Lambrusco by the Mediterranean, Pirolo and Chaefsky imagined the wine would translate well to Miami's steamy summer nights. Oh, how they were right.

Start a meal at Macchialina with a restorative Più Fresco ($11), an Italian sangria of sorts made with Lambrusco, honey and strawberries. Whet your appetite with speck ($7) from the charcuterie menu.

Then try the Più Fresco's base, Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Emilia-Romagna Lambrusco di Sorbara ($11 per glass; $42 for 750 ml), unadulterated. Enjoy the crisp, rose-colored wine with briny olives fried with sage and garlic slivers ($5).