Grapefruit was dubbed “the forbidden fruit” when it was first discovered in the wild in Barbados.

These days, grapefruit is more likely to be forbidden in produce sections as a result of sluggish sales. But this odd orange relative has found a surprising new champion: beer.

Always on the prowl for new ingredients, the craft-beer world has recently set its sights on this former '80s diet fad. Its beer-appropriate quality is its distinct bitterness, a taste akin to that of hops, the centerpiece of nouveau brews.

Shiner Ruby Redbird ($7 for six): This beer mixes grapefruit juice with ginger, creating a fresh and lively brew reminiscent of a shandy. Pair it with ceviche or Caribbean food. Available at Total Wine.

Cigar City/The Bruery Dos Costas Oeste Grapefruit Wood Aged ($28 for 750 ml): A limited-edition saison, this beer from Tampa is brewed with spices and spirals of grapefruit wood. Available at Abraxas Lounge.

Widmer Shaddock IPA ($6 for a draft pint): This brew nails the sweet spot by adding grapefruit peel to the brewing process. The true grapefruit flavor holds up alongside the piney hops. Available at Total Wine or on draft in spring and summer at Abraxas Lounge.