Son of a Shandy
A different kind of beer cocktail
Strawberry-rhubarb and yuzu-grapefruit shandies
We sometimes feel that Los Angeles’ burgeoning cocktail scene has overstepped its bounds.
In our mind, booze-heavy drinks should be a before-or-after proposition, libations that bookend a meal; when the first course hits the table, beer or wine is poured into our glass.
Son of a Gun’s general manager and barman, Daniel Warrilow, has us questioning that logic with his spring- and summer-perfect shandies, a recent addition to the 3rd Street restaurant’s cocktail menu.
These drinks have the same basic spirit as beer cut with lemonade, but Warrilow bottles his fruit-and-beer concoctions with a touch of fast-acting Champagne yeast and sets them aside for a day or so. The result is a light, mildly effervescent drink, the beer’s bitterness balanced by the sweet-tart presence of fruit.
Recently, we drank a grapefruit-yuzu shandy ($12), made with wheat beer, alongside the restaurant’s famed fried-chicken sandwich--an ideal combination that brought to mind both eating fried chicken with soda and pairing it with a brew.
We also sampled a strawberry-rhubarb shandy ($8) that Warrilow is perfecting. We wish it were as readily available in six-packs as the Anderson Valley Summer Solstice beer it’s made with.
Warrilow tells us a kumquat shandy made with Golden Road’s Hefeweizen is up next.
Son of a Gun, 8370 W. 3rd St., Mid-City; 323-782-9033 or sonofagunrestaurant.com
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