A Destination Food Court 

Hitting the highlights at Umamicatessen 

| Los Angeles   Dining | Willy Blackmore


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Photo: Umamicatessen

Adam Fleischman's newly opened hipster food court, Umamicatessen, is a cavernous establishment. With menus for three restaurants and a bar to navigate, the indecisive could be overwhelmed. Thus, our Umami-map:

Pigg: You'll hear a lot about chef Chris Cosentino's "brainaise," but truth be told, the gray-matter-spiked aioli doesn't taste like much. Instead, order a pile of Broadbent ham ($19); these translucent slivers of brawny Americana stand up to their Ibérico menu mates. The Hoof and Mouth banh mi (pictured; $13) is a favorite of ours, too.

The Cure: The Jewish deli is reimagined at this Umamicatessen department, and all the classics are on hand: smoked fish, chicken livers, matzo ball soup. Our deli benchmark is a pastrami sandwich ($12), and The Cure's dense, thick slices of pastrami on soft rye deliver--once you accept that it isn't served hot.

Umami Burger: Even if we can't get down with the truffle oil perfuming many of the patties served at this alt-burger chain, we love Umami's dedication to exploring each and every source of the fifth taste. This location's signature burger ($13) gets its savory supply from shrimp and our beloved yuzu kosho, reminding us that umami is much more than the flavor of charred meat.

Umamicatessen, 852 S. Broadway, Downtown; 213-413-8626

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Umamicatessen 852 S. Broadway Los Angeles CA 90015 213-413-8626
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