Fowl Play

To find good Peking duck, a trip to San Gabriel Valley or Chinatown has always been the norm. But with the new Philippe Chow in West Hollywood, you don't have to travel far: The Peking duck easily stands with, if not above, the rest.

Philippe's seven-pound roast duckling ($75) takes 45 minutes to prepare, so order it as soon as you sit down. And there's no head-count minimum here--you can even order duck for one at the bar.

It's a two-day process to get the birds perfectly crispy: They're first hung to air-dry in a special fan apparatus, then air is puffed into the skin to thin and stretch it. Each gets basted with honey and a special Chinese spice blend before getting fired in a custom-made drop oven designed by Chow himself.

The gorgeous, whole lacquered duck comes to your table on a cart, where a chef carefully shaves away small pieces and places them on a large platter.

The meat and skin aren't served separately, so each bite yields delicious crackling skin, and a thin layer of fat that melts into tender meat. Wrap a few slices in delicate house-made pancakes, add a touch of rich, sweet plum sauce and fresh scallions, and repeat.

Philippe Chow, 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; 323-951-1100 or philippechow.com