This holiday, go grower.

If you are buying books at Skylight, records at Amoeba, or various Los Angeles-made goods at Artisanal LA, this month might be a prime occasion for also going local with your New Year's Eve sparkling wine.

Champagne houses that buy grapes from numerous vineyards have long dominated this august French appellation. But grower Champagnes, wines made by the same people tending to the vines, are on the rise.

Not only do these terroir-driven bottlings bring a touch of indie cred to the most elitist of wines, but they have a lot of flavor to offer, too.

Take Champagne Doyard Cuvée Vendémiaire ($42 for 750 ml), made from 100 percent Chardonnay grown in sustainably farmed Grand and Première Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs.

This wine's sparkle is more shimmery than explosive, the soft bubbles delivering wisps of honeyed pear and yeast. The fruit continues on the palate, but more compelling is the rich, minerally depth that rides throughout the long, tart finish. It's what we'll be toasting with come midnight next Saturday.

There is a downside to drinking Doyard: Your New Year's Champagne might never star in a Jay-Z song.

Domaine LA, 6801 Melrose Ave., Mid-City; 323-932-0280 or domaine547.com