Santa Mon(tauk)ica

With its wicker chairs and Hamptons-blue accents, there's a breezy look to the new B.P. Oysterette. And it's not without purpose: The Ocean Ave. seafood spot is bringing a hefty dose of "back East" flavor to Santa Monica.

Views of the ocean add to the beachy feel, even if it's off in the distance. Try to score one of the few tables on the sidewalk, or grab a seat at the bar and watch the cooks sauté, shuck and steam in the open kitchen.

While everyone can find something here--there's even a juicy burger ($14) smothered in Tillamook cheddar--go for the East Coast clam-shack specialties. You'll find tender steamers ($16) swimming in a bowl of buttery broth, and creamy clam chowder ($7) with bacon and fennel. Oysters from both coasts are either served chilled on the half shell or lightly grilled ($14 for six); or get them cornmeal-breaded and fried with calamari and shrimp ($16).

The lobster roll (pictured, $22) is exactly how it should be: lots of sweet claw and tail meat lightly dressed in a homemade lemony mayonnaise, served in a buttered, grilled brioche hot dog bun. It really needs nothing more, but the homemade sweet-potato chips make a nice accompaniment.

If only getting to Montauk were this easy.

B.P. Oysterette, 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; 310-260-8877 or blueplatesantamonica.com