Skirt Chasers

When it comes to grilling steak for Labor Day barbecues, you'd be wise to look to the Argentineans, whose lessons in both grilling and futbol start at a very young age.

Argentine-born Pablo Alcotra, chef of Pasadena's new Malbec restaurant, says you don't have to spend a lot for a good steak. The most popular dish at the restaurant is the skirt steak, an inexpensive cut of meat that's rich in flavor and extremely juicy.

You can find skirt steak at just about any grocery store--prices range from $7 to $10 a pound--and the cut is generally thin, about a half-inch thick.

The key to a tender steak: Keep it simple. Peel off the two flaps of thin, opaque skin from both sides of the meat (if the butcher hasn't already), sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill over a medium flame for 2 (rare) to 4 (medium-rare) minutes per side.

Alcotra suggests letting the steak rest for 10 minutes before serving it whole to keep its juices intact. Drizzle it with garlicky chimichurri (click here for his recipe) and serve.

"It's just basic, honest food and should be prepared that way," says Alcotra. He suggests serving it with a bottle of--surprise--Argentinian Malbec. Try the 2006 Bodega Mendel Mendoza (available for $23 at K&L Wine Merchants).

Malbec, 1001 E. Green St., Pasadena; 626-683-0550 or malbeccuisine.com