Tasting Table LA

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Lower Volume, Higher Stakes

There's more than lattes and espresso at the Slow Bar

Justin Coates and his Sonic Youth tribute

Coffee is a volume game.

To earn money and to keep lines moving, baristas have to continually crank out drinks.

But in the back of its Venice coffeehouse, Intelligentsia is breaking the rules by taking it slow.

Open on weekdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., the Slow Bar is helmed by a different barista each week, where he or she has use of a vintage 1972 La Marzocco, a pair of espressos and complete creative freedom.

Christopher "Nicely" Abel Alameda explored alternative milks during his recent Slow Bar stint. Looking for a cow's-milk-like consistency and better health benefits than soy, Alameda turned to macadamia nuts, Brazil nuts and cashews. He paired the extracted liquids with bright, acidic coffees like Itzamna from Guatemala's Finca La Soledad.

Justin Coates, a guitarist in a band called Silver Snakes, blended passions by building a menu around '90s alternative rock, complete with an accompanying soundtrack. Siamese Dream, named for the Smashing Pumpkins album, involved a split shot of Kenyan Tegu, a bright single-origin espresso, followed by a macchiato. Goo was his affogato-like tribute to Sonic Youth's iconic album: a mini martini glass hosting floral lavender-honey gelato, espresso and raspberry-capped whipped cream.

Next week, barista Marcelino Martinez will be featuring new Oaxacan coffees at the Slow Bar.

Intelligentsia, 1331 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-399-1233 or intelligentsiacoffee.com

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Intelligentsia Venice 1331 Abbot Kinney Blvd. Venice CA 90291 310-399-1233
1331 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA 90291
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