The Other Berry

Foraging for mulberries in the backyard is a summer rite of passage for many around the country. Most Angelenos, however, can only find the plump berries at the farmers' markets for a few short weeks each year. That time is now.

SoCal farmers originally planted mulberries to ward off birds from other crops, but they soon realized people love them--and will pay upward of $25 a pound. The berries are similar to blackberries (but better) and highly perishable: Use immediately or freeze for later.

Because they're so delicious on their own, the best way to serve mulberries is straight up with a simple garnish. "They're earthy and sweet, but not too sweet," says Huckleberry's Zoe Nathan. At the café, she tops mulberries with a blend of whipped cream and crème fraîche (pictured, $9.50), or bakes them in a tart with fresh figs and toasted almonds.

At Ford's Filling Station, Ben Ford likes the delicate fruit with mascarpone ice cream, and Spago's Sherry Yard serves individual, buttery upside-down mulberry cakes with a side of buttermilk gelato.

Mulberries are rarely sold in grocery stores, but you can find them at Tenerelli Orchards, Weiser Family Farms and Circle C Ranch at the Santa Monica, Beverly Hills and Hollywood farmers' markets this month.