We've grown a bit tired of absentee restaurateurs duplicating their dining establishments in Los Angeles.

But the newest Japanese import, Tsujita, has us changing our minds. In fact, Takehiro Tsujita's first stateside branch of his eponymous Tokyo restaurant may be L.A.'s most ambitious izakaya to date.

The sign touts "artisan noodles," but the restaurant's lunchtime tsukemen (dipping ramen) won't be available until late August. However, Tsujita prepares a wide array of refined Japanese comfort foods worth a visit before the noodles land.

Settle into a plush booth and start with the signature salad (pictured; $13 for a small). Apparently cold slabs of medium-rare roast beef count as salad in Tsujita's dream world, a definition we welcome. The slices are served alongside sesame-tossed noodles, sweet shrimp, and mixed greens with curry dressing.

Shrimp Takoyaki ($9) features firm shrimp suspended in fried batter balls with nori-dusted mayo. A meaty square of braised pork ($9) is submerged in congee-like rice sauce, topped with dabs of spicy mustard and crispy wontons. Umami-rich slabs of grilled miso-marinated foie gras ($15 for a small) appear with fat-tempering streaks of balsamic and whole-grain mustard.

It's going to be hard to make room for noodles once they arrive, but we'll find a way.

Tsujita, 2057 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A.; 310-231-7373