Wood-Fired Fiesta

Two things inspired Larry Nicola (Nic's Martini Lounge) to open his newest restaurant: A large, pink neon "Mexico" sign he found at a local antique shop 15 years ago and a wood-burning oven left over from the West Hollywood space's former tenant, Bienvenudo. Both are what make the month-old Mexico Restaurante y Barra a stand-out.

As an Italian restaurant, the space was hidden and intimate. Now it's completely changed, with gleaming white chairs; bright red, pink and turquoise walls; twinkling lights strung across the patio; and that blazing "Mexico" sign. You can't miss it.

Thankfully, Nicola kept the wood-burning oven. The chefs make good use of it, whether it's to add a smoky flavor to black beans, to roast meats or to caramelize tomatoes for salsa. The chile rellenos ($14)--Anaheim peppers oozing Oaxacan cheese and spinach--get a nice char, and taquitos come stuffed with succulent wood-fired duck ($9). Away from the oven, there's a perfectly cooked skirt steak carne asada ($16) or a cool verdolaga (purslane) salad with chunks of tomato and silky avocado ($10).

It wouldn't be a Nicola restaurant without creative cocktails, and margaritas with muddled raspberry and cilantro, tamarind and pineapple, or chile, lime and cucumber go down way too easily.

Mexico Restaurante y Barra, 8512 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; 310-289-0088 or gogomexico.com