It's a refrain that's likely echoed through the Southland since the early days of Hollywood: There are no good bagels in L.A.

The statement is invariably uttered by an expat New Yorker, then followed by a soliloquy about his or her favorite bagel destination back East.

But Larry King, pitchman for The Original Brooklyn Water Bagel Co. and part-owner of the newly opened Beverly Hills location, is effectively telling his fellow, bagel-pining New Yorkers to shut up: A real bagel has arrived in L.A., he proclaims.

Brooklyn Water Bagel Co.'s bagels are made with water that's been run through a proprietary "Brooklynization" system. What that process entails is kept under wraps, which is fine by us--we're more interested in bagel taste and texture than water chemistry.

So how Brooklynized is the end product? Bagels here are dense and chewy, their exteriors bearing the hallmark burnish of a properly boiled and baked bread.

Purists as we are, we ordered a lox, red onion and cream cheese on sesame ($9)--a smoky jaw workout--and a baker's dozen to go ($12).

Bagels come with a plastic bag and instructions for freezing and reheating. After all, while it may not be Brooklyn, Beverly Hills is still a haul for some.

Brooklyn Water Bagel Co., 262 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills; 310-786-7400 or brooklynwaterbagels.com