Mori Sushi, the small, minimalist West L.A. spot that Morihiro Onodera opened in 2000, often feels more like a gallery than just another restaurant.

This is a sushi restaurant in the truest sense, serving only seafood, vegetables and few cooked dishes. But Onodera's artistry is what pulls you in, both on the plate and off--he even makes those one-of-a-kind serving vessels used for each course.

A quick sushi lunch is always delightful here, but the omakase ($75 to $130) showcases Mori's true talents and passion.

Ours recently began with a square of silky homemade tofu, slightly fermented and tangy, crowned with just-grated bright green wasabi. Other memorable bites included tender slivers of steamed abalone speckled with yuzu-chile paste, and fish gelatin atop microscopic--and delicious--roe.

The kelp-broth soup brimming with a tangle of soy-milk skin, eggplant and steamed fish was delicate, yet robust in flavor.

Of course, the nigiri is always sublime. Onodera seasons each piece himself, brushing the silver-skinned baby barracuda or pale pink Tai snapper with house-made soy sauce, as only an artist would.

Even the rice, grown exclusively for Mori and polished by the chef daily, is exquisite; you can practically taste each individual grain.

Mori Sushi, 11500 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A.; 310-479-3939 or morisushi.org