Road to Discovery
Covell, a small wine bar with a big purpose
Serendipity can flow from a bottle of wine; it did for Dustin Lancaster and Matthew Kaner, the owner and bar manager, respectively, of Bar Covell in Los Feliz.
Both men favor Luc Lapeyre Minervois l'Amourier, a relatively obscure Rhone-style blend. When Lancaster went looking for it at Silverlake Wine, where Kaner then worked, they bonded. Several months later, Bar Covell was born.
The list of affordable, lesser-known labels offers no tasting notes because Kaner and Lancaster want you to discover something new. When you order at the bar, the questions begin: Red or white? Light or heavy? Fruit-forward or minerally?
Depending on your answers, you might be handed a glass of vibrant 2009 Domaine de la Redaudie Sauvignon Blanc ($9) or a juicy 2007 Copain Pinot Noir from Anderson Valley ($15)--and you'll probably be left wondering where this wine has been all of your life.
But since the bar buys in small quantities, chances are these revelatory bottles--like the crisp and intensely flavored 2009 Sella Majoli Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo rosé--will be gone tomorrow.
So stock up: You'll get a 10 percent discount on any bottle you buy for home.
Bar Covell, 4628 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz; 323-660-4400 or barcovell.com