Although it opened only a few weeks ago, District--the new restaurant from owner George Abou-Daoud and chef Kris Morningstar--has an old soul.

The space wasn't always a restaurant: Its weathered woods, rusted tin ceiling tiles, and bar that's as old as Hollywood itself were brought in to make the place look and feel like it's been there forever.

And it's the perfect backdrop for Morningstar's menu, which blends trends, California's seasonal ingredients and classic techniques. It all works.

Whatever you do, order one of the homemade breads, especially the mini Yorkshire puddings ($3), as soon as you sit down. They're made to order and are rich with the tastes of duck fat and thyme.

There's smoked beef deckle, a cut that's akin to brisket, sliced thin and topped with pickled cucumber and dill ($7). A hit of aleppo pepper gives shrimp and creamy grits depth and a little heat ($16).

Pork belly is everywhere in L.A., but not like this: crisp and succulent, paired with nutty farro verde, sweet apricot mostarda and almonds ($14).

No need to slip next door to Mercantile for a scoop of homemade ice cream; District's buttery financier, filled with a sweet prune purée, is the perfect end, especially with a glass of Lambrusco.

District, 6600 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; 323-962-8200 or districtonsunset.com