Well before it opened, Trois Mec was already the restaurant that had the whole city talking, whether about its clandestine location inside a former pizza joint, its controversial prepaid reservation system, or its super-stacked lineup of chefs--Ludovic Lefebvre, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.

Now, when diners walk into the cozy 26-seat restaurant, they’re greeted with a hearty shout of “Bonsoir!” from the kitchen staff.

It’s clearly Ludo’s turn to do the talking.

Our five-course dinner ($75, before tax and mandatory tip) began with a parade of delectable snacks, including a delicate herb tart and a deboned chicken wing crusted with mustard seeds.

For those who once attended Ludobites, Lefebvre’s perennial pop-up, the cooking might appear less flamboyant, but even the simplest dishes here, such as riced potatoes with onion soubise, bonito and Salers cheese, are gorgeous, comforting and nuanced.

When the dinner peaked with wood-grilled rib eye cap dabbed with fermented black walnut paste (“It tastes just like A.1.,” says sous chef Doug Rankin), then culminated with almond ice cream and neon-pink rose granita, the magic of Trois Mec hit us.

This trio of chefs is primed to launch the bistronomie movement into another stratosphere altogether.

And that’s something that will soon have the whole country talking.