Love Lunch Again

Everyone knows a great sandwich is the sum of its parts. Take the Costello at the four-month-old Tamarind Ave. Deli in Hollywood. It reaches a new level of deliciousness thanks to dry-rubbed, slow-roasted brisket melding perfectly with sweet caramelized onions, tangy horseradish cream sauce, smoked mozzarella and a subtle bite from wild arugula. Delete any one thing and you might as well go to Arby's across the street. The sandwich is so popular--and cheap, only $8.95 for a 10-inch sub--that most days you'll be hard pressed to find it available after 2 p.m.

For the SOLers, Tamarind also has a classic Italian cold-cut sub, the way it should be made (Capicola, salami and mortadella sliced per order, cheese, onions, lettuce, pepperoncini and Italian vinaigrette) as well as a tasty meatball sub, salads and a solid selection of meat, vegetables and cheeses so you can create your own concoctions.

Because it's next to Delancey (and under the same owner), there's a similar casual vibe with wine bottles on the shelves, handwritten chalkboard menus and knickknacks in the windows. Nearby studios take advantage of the take-out and delivery options, but for those who can eat in, there are a few tables inside and out. Extra bonus: It's now open Saturdays.

Tamarind Ave. Deli, 1471 Tamarind Ave. (at Sunset), Hollywood; 323-960-2451