Lobster's Bear Market

Take advantage of the lobster glut--while you still can

Once upon a time, lobsters were so plentiful that fishermen would use them as bait. While that's far from the case now, this season's Maine lobster prices--which are down to 1980s levels--will make your visit to the lobster tank feel like a trip back in time.

This lobster glut is due to both advances in sustainable-fishing practices and decreased demand from budget-conscious eaters. But it won't last forever: Expect supplies to dip (and prices to rise) with the spring catch.

Many restaurants around the country are taking advantage of the lobster surplus by adding myriad lobster-based dishes to their menus, but now's the time to try one at home. Lee Skawinski, the lobster-loving chef of Cinque Terre and Vignola restaurants in Portland, Maine, offers an easy, festive recipe for crispy broiled lobster tails.

Skawinski recommends buying feisty lobsters (the more movement, the better). Before boiling or steaming them, season the cooking water with wine, bay leaves and carrots, and poke a hole in the base of each tail to allow the water to flavor the meat.

Crispy Lobster Tail with Warm Lobster Vinaigrette
Makes 6 servings

Lobster
6 boiled or steamed lobsters
4 basil leaves, finely chopped
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
Salt and pepper

Vinaigrette
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup Sun Gold or cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Separate the lobster tails from the bodies and split the tails down the back. Remove the claw and knuckle meat (reserve lobster shells and body for another use).
2. In a small bowl, combine the basil, shallots and butter; season with salt and pepper. Brush the mixture on the lobster tails and coat with toasted panko. Bake the tails for 6 to 8 minutes.
3. Preheat the broiler. Broil the tails until the panko is golden brown, about 30 seconds.
4. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: Heat a skillet. Add the butter, olive oil, tomatoes, chives, parsley, lemon juice and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce the sauce by a quarter. Add the claw and knuckle meat and simmer until cooked through.
5. To serve, place one lobster tail, two knuckles and two claws in a bowl and top with 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Repeat with the remaining lobster and vinaigrette and serve.

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